Measurements

Client should be completely relaxed. Posturing will affect the “lay” of finished shirt.

Standard Tab or Eyelet Collar is: B22B

Chest

Place tape measure around the fullest part of the chest, high up under the arms and over the shoulder blades. Customer’s arms should be at their side in a relaxed stance. NO posturing, as this will affect sloping on shoulders.

Note the actual skin measurement in the box marked “Chest” on the order form to the left of the plus (+) sign.

The preferred fit or degree of fullness is determined by the number of “additional inches of fabric” (the allowance) added to the actual skin measurement.

CHEST ALLOWANCE GUIDE:

+10 EXTREME FULL CUT
+8 FULL CUT
+7 MODERATE CUT
+6 TAPERED CUT

Note the allowance desired in the chest box to the right of the plus (+) sign.

Example: a 42+8 in the chest box means the customer has an actual skin measurement of 42″ and desires a full cut of +8. The finished shirt will measure 50″ at the chest.

Additional Chest Information:

• A. The size of the armhole is established by the allowance you choose. Increasing the allowance deepens the armhole and decreasing does the opposite.
• B. The allowance guidelines are cited for trim to average, “mainstream” body types. It is recommended that extra large or overweight customers be fit with the full cut only on the first order.
• C. The skin measurement should be noted in full inch increments, not 1/2 inches.Round up to the nearest inch.
• D. Use the comments box to make note of over arm, (if greater than 8″) or descriptions such as barrel chest, low or flat chest and heavy or full back.
• E. Keep in mind that shirts can be trimmed down to make chest smaller, but a new body must be cut to make larger. Always upsize if in a pinch.
• F. You can adjust the fit on a reorder by changing the allowance. Do not change the actual skin measurement unless client has gained or lost weight and inches.
• G. Clients with heavy upper body mass or full upper backs should be given a full +8 cut allowance. The same is true for athletically built clients with narrow hips.

ACCURATE BODY DESCRIPTIONS ARE NECESSARY TO ENSURE BEST FIT

Waist

Have customer assume a relaxed, normal stance and place tape measure around the “shirt” waist, located below the rib cage. For customers with corpulent or portly postures, be sure to take the measure around the fullest part of waist.

Note the actual skin measurement in the box marked Waist on the order form to the left of the plus (+) sign.

The preferred fit, or degree of fullness is determined by the number of “additional inches of fabric” (the allowance) added to the actual skin measurement.

WAIST ALLOWANCE GUIDE:

+9 EXTREME FULL CUT
+7 FULL CUT
+6 MODERATE CUT
+5 TAPERED CUT

Note the allowance desired in the chest box to the right of the plus (+) sign.

Example: a 37+7 in the waist box means the customer has an actual skin measurement of 37″ and desires a full cut of +7. The finished shirt will measure 44″ at the shirtwaist.

Additional Waist Information:

• A. The allowance guidelines cited are for trim to average, “mainstream” body types. It is recommended that large or obese customers be fit with the full cut only on the first order.
• B. The shirtwaist is right below the ribcage, approximately 9″ below the armhole, and is the point where the shirt is most tapered.
• C. It is helpful to note the customer’s height and weight in the appropriate box on the order form. The customer’s Height may influence the waistline position to be lowered (for tall) or raised (for short) on their respective patterns.
• D. Remember that when seated, the waistline or midsection will expand and measure larger than when the customer is standing.
• E. Distribution of fabric at the waist is proportioned with more fabric in the front than in the back of the shirt. This takes into account the needs based on the shape of the body.
• F. You can adjust the fit on a reorder by changing the allowance. Do not change the actual skin measurement unless the client has gained or lost weight and inches.

FOLLOW CHEST AND WAIST GUIDELINES FOR HIP MEASUREMENTS

Hips

Place tape measure around fullest part of hips at the hipbone. Tape should be snug.

Over Arm

(This measurement is noted in the comments area of order form). Have customer assume relaxed stance with arms by their side, place tape at same location as for chest measure, but measure over arms. If not greater than 8″, do not include.

Yoke

The yoke is measured from the outside seam, where the yoke joins the sleeve, across the top of the shoulders (below the collar) to the opposite side. The yoke should fit comfortably on the “outside edge” of the shoulders. The tape should not drop below the prominent neck bone. See illustration 2. A, B, C.

Your eye is the truest guide when determining the yoke size. Observe and measure the yoke of the dress shirt the customer is wearing, if it looks right, write that size in the yoke box on the order form. If it looks too small or narrow, increase by 1/2″ increments to desired fit. If it looks too large or big, (draping off the clients shoulders), decrease by 1/2″ increments.

It is difficult to accurately measure and determine a yoke size on a customer wearing a golf or T-shirt. If possible have them put on a dress shirt with a “regular” yoke prior to taking their measurements.

The collar of a dress shirt should be buttoned closed while taking the yoke measurement to ensure accuracy.

Yoke measures should be given in 1/2″ increments.

Yokes are made with 1/2″ additional allowance for shrinkage.

Sleeve

Place tape at halfway point of yoke measurement; use the base of prominent neck bone as guide. Customer’s arms should be at their sides, with hands balled into fists. Extend tape down the outside of arm to pinkie knuckle. Subtract 1.5 to 2 inches depending on customer’s preference. Do NOT make allowances for shrinkage.

The sleeve length is a measurement from the center point of the yoke (prominent neck bone under collar) across the shoulder point, down to the end of the sleeve. The sleeve is actually comprised of three (3) parts: 1/2 of the yoke, the sleeve piece itself, and the width of the cuff.

A correct, custom-fit sleeve, when measured properly, is often longer than what the customer has been accustomed to wearing. With the cuff unbuttoned, the sleeve should fall below the wrist. When the cuff is buttoned, the additional length (fabric) is “pushed up” above the cuff. This extra fullness in the forearm is the secret of a comfortable sleeve fit, in that the customer can bend or stretch his arms without binding at the elbow or shoulder due to the additional fullness.

FULL sleeves can be ordered for the larger client looking for more room in the elbow and forearm.

BIG sleeves can be ordered for the larger client looking for more room in the elbow, forearm and armhole.

REQUESTS FOR BIG OR FULL SLEEVES ARE TO BE NOTED IN THE COMMENTS SECTION OF THE ORDER FORM.

Sleeves are made with 3/4″ additional allowance for shrinkage.

Half Sleeve

Place tape at halfway point of yoke measurement; use the base of prominent neck bone as guide. Customer’s arms should be at their sides, measure to desired length.

Cuffs

Have customer ball hands into fist and measure around the wrist and over the wrist bone to the nearest 1/4″. Add 3″ to this measurement for shrinkage allowance.

If the client wears an extra-large or thick sized watch, simply add 1/2″ to that cuff and order separate sized cuffs (right and left). Do not measure over the watch.

There should be no difference in size for French or Button cuff styles.

The cuff size ordered is the actual, horizontal measurement across the cuff, from outside edge to outside edge. Cuffs are to be ordered in 1/4″ increments.

A valuable reference to double-check or confirm the correct size, is to measure the cuff size on the shirt the customer is wearing, and compare it to the size you’re ordering.

Tail Length

The tail is measured vertically down the front of the shirt. Place tape measure under the collar leaf, where the front panel, yoke and collar band intersect. Measure desired length.

Shoulder Line

The shoulder line is evaluated by observing the front panels of the shirt the customer is wearing, at the upper chest. Pulls or distortions of the fabric in this area will determine specifying a shoulder line other than normal.

Slope shoulders are apparent when the fabric pulls from the collar down toward the lower part of the armhole. This is typical in men who weight train.

Square shoulders are apparent when pulls in the fabric run from the 2nd or 3rd button toward the point of the shoulder. Women, typically, have very square shoulders.

If only one shoulder is sloped or squared, note this on the order form as slope right (or left) or square right (or left). This can also be noted in the drop left / drop right column on the order form. Do not discuss or make reference to the shoulder line with the customer. We will make adjustments that should correct the shoulder line and alleviate most, if not all, of the problems with pulling.

Tapers

Allowances over the skin are the amount of inches of fabric added to the customer’s actual skin measurements. Following are allowances for the chest, waist, and hips, which will allow you to give the customer the taper desired:
FACTORY RECOMMENDS AND DEFAULTS TO +6 ALLOWANCES FOR CHEST/WAIST/HIP

Always give the actual skin measurement and the allowance over the skin number. DO NOT add the numbers together.

If an allowance is not indicated, the standard 6″ over the chest, waist, and hips will be applied automatically.

CHEST ALLOWANCE:

+10 Extreme Full Cut
+8 Full Cut
+7 Moderate Cut
+6 Tapered Cut
+5 Trim Cut

Example: Customer’s exact skin chest is 42″, with moderate +6 cut desired, finished shirt will measure 48″.

WAIST ALLOWANCE:

+9 Extreme Full Cut
+7 Full Cut
+6 Moderate Cut
+5 Tapered Cut

Example: Customer’s exact skin waist is 35″, with the tapered +5 cut desired; the finished shirt will measure 40″.

HIP ALLOWANCE:

+9 Extreme Full Cut
+8 Full Cut
+7 Moderate Cut
+6 Tapered Cut

Example: Customer’s exact skin hip is 40″, with the tapered +6 cut desired; the finished shirt will measure 46″.